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Tango in Perugia 

Thursday nights are dance nights all across the city this summer. Micah loves it. This little piazza is halfway down Via dei Priori. 


Summer 2015 Archaeology Fieldwork Final Report


Final research report for the 2015 season

[ n.b.: this post links to two PDF files; see below.]

Our Summer 2015 training and fieldwork project was a success. In the field, we were able to complete an intensive survey of the ancient site, which in all likelihood was a villa in the territory of ancient Chiusi (Etruscan Clevsin, Roman Clusium), occupied from the 2nd c. BC through the 3rd c. AD, which had processing and storage facilities for agricultural products as well as accommodations of some luxury, including a bathing complex. We also may have located an ancient road that runs just to the northeast of the site.

For the local antiquarium (in the Palazzo della Corgna), we were able to craft a timeline and fashion two brochures (one for adults, one for children; see below) to help visitors enjoy and understand the museum and its displays.

A summary of all the different facets of our work (classroom instruction, field training, field trips, community engagement, museum projects, student project and presentations) can be read here: [PDF; 24 MB].

The team’s final survey research report is also available here: [PDF in English; also 24 MB]. Thanks to all of our participating students, who worked so hard on the project, and to our partners in Castiglione del Lago and the Umbra Institute in Perugia.

Thanks also to funding support from the Department of Classical Studies, DePauw University, and a private donor, who all made it possible for faculty and students to participate.

Umbra Institute Summer Archaeology Program 2015Brochure

Saw a mountain. Climbed a mountain.

We climbed a mountain above Castellucio because our dad told us to. It was a lot of fun and we felt very accomplished afterwards. We were also lucky because some friends who stayed later there said that a huge storm hit with hail and everything.


The view wasn’t half bad.

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A Break from the Heat

If you have been following the weather in Europe, you know that it is unseasonably hot in Italy right now. We are little better off in Perguia because there is always a breeze up here. Even so, yesterday we decided to escape the heat in the city and head up into the Sibilline mountains towards the plain of Castellucio. This is another area in Umbria famous for its lentils, farro (spelt), and peas. In the early summer the plain blossoms into a sea of colors. We were a little too early for the flowers this year, but the views were stunning nonetheless.


There is still snow on the mountains!


Castelluccio, population 150, 1452 m. asl

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Umbra Dig 2015: Settling In

We are back in Perugia just under a year after we moved back to Indiana. Some of the family had already made visits back—we have begun to help lead Smithsonian Institute Journeys Tours (Highlights of Italy [done in 2014 and again in 2015] and Gems of Tuscany and Umbria [2016]), and Pedar led a DePauw Winter Term tour for soccer players in January of this year, in which Simon participated. This summer, Simon is taking an intensive Italian course at Umbra Institute, and we are partnering through DePauw with Umbra for a new summer archaeology field school.

Summer Archaeology Class of 2015

Summer Archaeology Class of 2015

The view from the Umbra Institute's classrooms

The view from the Umbra Institute’s classrooms

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Castel Rigone: End of Watch

Blizzard14image [The story of Castel Rigone (21 chapters) in chronological order here.]

There is an ending to the story of Castel Rigone Calcio. And it is an unexpected one. Maybe. Well, perhaps it represents a final twist, then. I tell the tale in The Blizzard, issue 14, Sept. 8, 2014, pages 122-128: “Rise and Fall of Castel Rigone: The entrepreneur, the village team and the experiment in humanistic capitalism”…

“This story does not end with dramatic victory from a penalty. It begins that way — in Florence, at a quarter to five on a Sunday afternoon, 5 May 2013. Banks of dark grey clouds jostle over the Apennines along the Arno River. Tourists shuffle along to glimpse Botticelli’s Allegory of Spring at the Uffizi Gallery. And at Stadio Turri, fourteen men crowd in along a torn white arc to watch Dario Pietro Tranchitella place a ball carefully on the ground…”

You’ll have to go to The Blizzard’s website to find out the rest.

I’m a bit stunned to have published this in The Blizzard. I’ve been a reader ever since issue ‘zero’ appeared in 2011, as it represented the first real attempt at a football literary periodical. The founders weren’t after money (though they wanted it to succeed); its financial model is ‘pay-what-you-want’—as little as one pence per issue, though you’d have to look pretty hard in the mirror at yourself if you only shelled out that much for hundreds of pages of great writing and insight. “Intelligent Football Journalism,” it says on the ‘About’ page that tells the origin story. Exactly.

The editor, Jonathan Wilson (Twitter: jonawils), has written some of the best books and articles extant on the subject of soccer. He conjured the idea for The Blizzard in a Sunderland pub with the help of friends and colleagues. To have one’s name in the same table of contents as Philippe Auclair, Scott Murray, and Rob Smyth is an honor.

Due credit in the Blizzard article (though the journal didn’t insert it) is our friend Marzia, for her help and humor in certain translations that otherwise I would not have properly understood. My deep thanks, Marzia.

It was exactly one year ago when I first learned about Castel Rigone, the village club whose youth team was practicing on a sunny Wednesday upon the artificial turf at the Don Bosco Scuola di Calcio in Perugia. Never could I have imagined how it would turn out. Requiescas in pace, Castel Rigone Calcio.

<—Back to “Weeks 33-34: To Morality and Beyond”

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